Syrakuzy i wyspa Ortygia – Sycylia

Pierwszym punktem na mojej sycylijskiej mapie były Syrakuzy, które znajdują się na wschodniej części największej wyspy Morza Śródziemnego. Miasto dzieli się na dwie części: stały ląd i mała wyspa Ortygia, na której mieści się stare miasto. To bardzo urocze miasto, a wysepka dodaje jeszcze więcej uroku. Zabieram Was na jednodniowy spacer po Syrakuzach, gdzie historyczna ich część została wpisana na listę światowego dziedzictwa kulturowego UNESCO. Co warto zwiedzić?

W teatrze greckim 🙂

MAPA

Jeśli chcesz zobaczyć na mapie mój plan zwiedzania to kliknij w tę MAPĘ. Turystyczna mapa Syrakuz znajduje się TUTAJ.

Obszar Archeologiczny Neapolis (Area Archeologica della Neapolis)

To obszar, na którym znajduje się jeden z największych teatrów greckich (teatro greco), jakie zachowały się do naszych czasów. Teatr został wykuty w skale w V w. p. n. e., robi duże wrażenie, ponieważ kiedyś mieściło się tu ok 24. tys. widzów! Składa się z ponad 60 rzędów widowni. Prawdopodobnie poza występami odbywały się tu także ważne wydarzenia polityczne. W czasach rzymskich teatr stał się cyrkiem.

Teatr grecki

Ołtarz Hierona II (Ara di Ierone II)

to monumentalny wielki ołtarz w starożytnej dzielnicy Neapolis, zbudowany przez króla Hierona II (tyrana Syrakuz) i uznawany za największy ołtarz znany od starożytności. Niestety nie zachowało się go wiele, bo jedynie podstawa. Ma ona niemal 200 metrów długości i ponad 22 metry szerokości dzięki czemu łatwo wyobrazić sobie jak kolosalnym był kiedyś ten ołtarz. Prawdopodobnie wysokość ołtarza to 15metrów.

Latomia del Paradiso

czyli kamieniołomy, na których znajduje się Ucho Dionizjusza i Jaskinia Powroźników. Przestrzeń kamieniołomów była potrzebna do rozbudowy miasta, ponieważ Grecy stąd wydobywali wapń. W wydrążonych jaskiniach przetrzymywano później więźniów. Latomia jednak bardziej przypomina ogrody pełne kwiatów i cytrusów. Ciepłą porą roku przyjemnie jest odpocząć od żaru słońca pomiędzy tamtejszą roślinnością.

Ucho Dionizjusza (Orecchio di Dionisio)

to jaskinia, która ma niesamowitą akustykę. Podczas mojego zwiedzania stał tam Pan, który śpiewał włoskie przeboje – już z daleka było słychać Jego głos. Warto zrobić próbę i coś powiedzieć, żeby sprawdzić siłę tej akustyki. Legenda mówi, że Dionizjusz I stawał przy wejściu by podsłuchiwać rozmowy więźniów znajdujących się wewnątrz. Ci, którzy mieli zbyt długi język nie kończyli szczęśliwie. Przestrzeń i ciemność jaskini może lekko zaburzyć zwiedzanie ze względu na zapach… A przecież na obszarze są dwie toalety!

Ucho Dionizjusza

Jaskinia Powroźników (Grotta dei Cordari) 

 to miejsce gdzie niektórzy rzemieślnicy produkowali wszelkiego rodzaju sznury i liny, bo powroźnictwo to nic innego jak praca wykonywana przez powroźnika, która polegała na produkcji lin i powrozów poprzez splatanie lub skręcanie kilku oddzielnych sznurów (najczęściej z pasów skóry lub włókien konopi). Naturalna wilgoć jaskini pomagała przy wyrobie lin. Tradycja te wymarła kilka dekad temu. Oznaki wydobywania kamienia są godne uwagi i bardzo wyraźne: na ścianach i sufitach. Nie można jednak podejść bliżej.

Jaskinia Powroźników

Amfiteatr rzymski (Anfiteatro Romano)

to trzeci co do wielkości we Włoszech (po Koloseum w Rzymie i Arenie w Weronie).

Amfiteatr rzymski

ADRES: Via Giuseppe Agnello n. 26

CZYNNE: Wymagane rezerwacje dla grup studentów i grup powyżej 15 osób.

  • wg informatora otrzymanego przy wejściu: wtorek-niedziela 9.30-18.30
  • wg strony internetowej: marzec-październik: 9.30-18.30; listopad – luty: pon-pt 9.30-14.00; sob-nie 9.30-17.00

CENA: 10 e (ulgowy 5 e).

PROTIP 1: Bilet należy trzymać przy sobie, ponieważ jest kilka wejść na teren obszaru archeologicznego i bilety są za każdym razem sprawdzane

PROTIP 2: Można kupić bilety łączone: 13,50 e (7 e) pozwalające na zwiedzanie: Obszaru Archeologicznego Neapolis + Regionalnego Muzeum Archeologiczne im. Paola Orsiego + Galerii Regionalnej w Pałacu Bellomo

Amfiteatr rzymski

Regionalne Muzeum Archeologiczne im. Paola Orsiego (Museo Archeologico Regionale Paolo Orsi)

Poza obszarem Archeologicznym Neapolis można również wstąpić do muzeum, w którym znajduje się najbardziej znana rzeźba antyczna na Sycylii – Wenus wyłaniająca się z fal.

ADRES: Viale Teocrito 66

CZYNNE: wt-sob 9-18, niedz 9-13.30

CENY: 8 e (ulgowy 4 e) lub bilet łączony 13,50 e (7 e)

We Włoszech bardzo często spotykany widok wodopoju 🙂 Ten, w Neapolis, chyba trochę przestarzały, taki… archeologiczny 🙂

Sanktuarium Madonny od Łez (Santuario della Madonna delle Lacrime)

Sanktuarium Madonny od Łez

Sanktuarium, które ma dość kontrowersyjną bryłę. Nazywane jest „żelbetowym potworem”. Na mnie ta budowla z betonu zbrojonego zrobiła wrażenie. Powstała dla upamiętnienia cudu z 1953 roku, podczas którego przez kilka dni z gipsowego wizerunku Niepokalanego Serca Maryi, powieszonego nad łóżkiem młodego małżeństwa, zaczęły płynąć łzy. Cud ten widziało ponad 200 osób, powstał również pamiątkowy film. Sanktuarium Madonny jest miejscem licznych pielgrzymek.

ADRES: Via del Santuario 33  strona internetowa

CZYNNE:

  • Bazylika: pon-sob 7-13 oraz 15-20; niedz i święta 7-20
  • Krypty: pon-sob 9=13 oraz 15-19; niedz i święta 9-20.45

CENA: wstęp bezpłatny

ISOLA DI ORTIGIA

Na wyspę można się dostać przez jeden z dwóch mostów: Ponte Santa Lucia lub Ponte Umbertino

W drodze na Ortygię

Świątynia Apollina (Tempio di Apollo) 

Świątynię wybudowano w VI w. p. n. e. i jest ona najstarszą świątynią dorycką na Sycylii. Uważa się za jeden z najcenniejszych zabytków Ortygii. Po budowli pozostało jednak bardzo mało, bo tylko kilka fragmentów kolumn i trochę podstawy. Dziś budynek jest w ruinie, zajmując sporą część Piazza Pancali, niedaleko mostów łączących wyspę ze stałym lądem. Przechodząc obok można nawet nie zwrócić szczególnej uwagi. Obok znajduje się informacja mówiąca o tym jak to wyglądało kiedyś. Podziwianie jest bezpłatne. Ze względu na fakt, że Ortygia jest bardzo mała, to warto tutaj zajść na chwilę i zobaczyć te pozostałości.

Świątynia Apollina

Piazza Archimede 

Mały placyk, na którym znajduje się dość pokaźna fontanna z Artemidą, która ukazuje mitologiczną scenę. Możemy zauważyć boginię łowów, która zamienia Aretuzę w rzekę. Plac ten możemy uznać za geograficzne centrum wyspy Ortygii. Kiedyś nie było tu placu, ale było to jedno z głównych skrzyżowań wyspy. Na środku placu znajduje się Fontana Di Diana z 1907 roku wyrzeźbiona dzięki Gulio Mischettiemu. Fontanna jest zbudowana z betonu zbrojonego, a przedstawia figurę Diany z łukiem i psem, czyli atrybuty bogini łowów, protektorki Ortigii w czasach greckich. U jej stóp rozciąga się Aretuza. Możemy również zauważyć cztery trytony, które gromadzą dwa koniki morskie i dwa szczyty szybujące nad falami.

Piazza Duomo (Piazza del Duomo) 

Piazza Dumo

Przy placu mieści się katedra Duomo, która jest hybrydą stylów architektonicznych. Początkowo miejsce kultu bogini Ateny, by później stać się świątynią chrześcijańską pod wezwaniem Najświętszej Maryi Panny. Za barokową fasadą możemy dostrzec fragmenty doryckiej świątyni Ateny z V w. p. n. e. dlatego warto tutaj wejść do środka.

Katedra Duomo

CENA: 2e. Wchodząc do budynku od razu zauważamy kasy, których nie da się pominąć; nie można również niczego dostrzec ponieważ są powieszone kotary.

Z kościołem połączony jest Pałac Arcybiskupi (Palazzo Arcivescovile).

Z placem tym również koresponduje Kościół Świętej Łucji (Chiesa di Santa Lucia alla Badia), w którym można podziwiać obraz Caravaggia „Pogrzeb Św. Łucji” z 1608 roku. Kim była Święta Łucja? Jedną z męczennic, która została zamordowana w 304 r. podczas prześladowań chrześcijan. Gdy namiestnik cesarski Paschazjusz skazał ją na pohańbienie w domu publicznym to Łucja wydłubała sobie oczy, aby nikomu się nie podobać. Dlatego możemy zauważyć motyw oczu leżących w misce. Wg legendy Matka Boża przywróciła Świętej Łucji oczy. Następnie męczennicę próbowano spalić na stosie, ale to też się nie udało. Zginęła od ciosu mieczem w szyję. Wstęp do kościoła jest bezpłatny. Naprzeciwko katedry wznosi się Ratusz, który jest nową siedzibą Senatu Syrakuz.

Kościół Św. Łucji

Galeria Regionalna w Pałacu Bellomo (Galleria Regionale di Palazzo Bellomo) 

Prezentuje dzieła sztuki od późnego średniowiecza do współczesności. W galerii warto zwrócić uwagę na rzeźbę „Madonny karmiącej Dzieciątko” autorstwa Domenica Gaginiengo; sarkofagi XV-wiecznych gubernatorów królewskich oraz skarb muzeum – obraz „Zwiastowanie” autorstwa Antonella da Messiny z 1474 roku.

CZYNNE: wt – sob 9-19; niedz 9-13

CENY: 8 e (4 e), albo bilet łączony 13,50 e (7 e), o którym wspominałam wcześniej

Zamek Maniace (Castello Maniace) 

Znajduje się na końcu promenady. Każdy z boków zamku ma po ok 50 m. Zamek został zbudowany w XIII wieku przez cesarza Fryderyka II. Budowla nosi nazwę George Maniakesa, bizantyjskiego generała, który odbił Arabom miasto w 1038 roku. Zamek służył jako miejsce zamieszkania przez liczne królowe Sycylii. W XV wieku był używany jako więzienie. Został włączony do fortyfikacji broniących portu i miasta. Ogromna eksplozja uszkodziła go w 1704 roku, po czym został on wyremontowany i przystosowany do użycia broni.

CZYNNE: pon 14.30-18.30, wt – sob 9.00-13.30

CENA: 4 e (2 e)

I to już koniec mojego zwiedzania. To miasto mnie oczarowało. Przepiękna, mała wysepka chwyta za serce. To właśnie Syrakuzy (oraz Taorminę) wspominam najlepiej z sycylijskich miast odwiedzonych przeze mnie. Dzięki, że wytrwałaś/wytrwałeś do końca 🙂

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    1. Zdecydowanie tak 🙂 A w Uchu Dionizjusza warto się posilić o jakieś odgłosy – mówiłam głośniej swoje imię, a niosło się hen daleko 😀

  146. Dzięki Tobie to przyjamniej zobaczyłam jak tam jest:) mówią,że marzenia się spełniaja..więc czekam cierpliwie:) cudne zdjęcia i bardzo wartościowy wpis!

    1. Dziękuję, cieszę się, że uznałaś go za wartościowy 🙂 Syrakuzy zrobiły na mnie duże wrażenie 🙂 I pewnie, że marzenia się spełniają – trzeba w nie mocno wierzyć. Ja, dodatkowo, spisałam swoją listę marzeń MOJA LISTA MARZEŃ 🙂 Może mamy jakieś wspólne punkty? 🙂

    1. Etna, Palermo, Taormina, Katania i informacje praktyczne – już wkrótce 🙂

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