Prawosławne święta wielkanocne w Serbii

Milos, to chłopak, którego poznaliśmy przez couchsurfing (serwis internetowy, dzięki któremu można otrzymać/zaoferować darmowy nocleg u kogoś) w miejscowości Kraljevo w Serbii.

Czekał na nas do późnej godziny zanim udało się nam dojechać. Spędziliśmy przemiły wieczór na rozmowach z Nim, Jego bratem i wujkiem (byłym nauczycielem języka rosyjskiego, z którym miałam wiele wspólnych tematów do rozmów). Mieliśmy zwiedzić miasto i ruszać dalej, jednak zmieniliśmy plany i spędziliśmy u Milosa 2 noce.

Odpoczynek

Pojechaliśmy do Jego rodziców na wieś by spędzić prawosławne święta wielkanocne razem. Rodzina przyjęła nas bardzo miło. To był czas dużego odpoczynku i relaksu. Doceniany tym bardziej po poprzednim deszczowym dniu. Milos zabrał nas do niedalekiej jaskini, graliśmy w szachy, leżeliśmy na hamaku, rozmawialiśmy ze znajomymi i rodziną.

Tak jak w Polsce symbolem Wielkanocy (dla mnie) jest barszcz czerwony mojej mamy, tak w Serbii poza gotowanymi jajkami nie było czegoś co robi się wyłącznie na święta. Na obiad mama Milosa przygotowała to co jada się też w zwykłą niedzielę, z takim wyjątkiem, że wszystkie wyroby wędlin były domowe. Było też przepyszne ciasto – ulubione ciasto Milosa, które mama upiekła na Jego życzenie 😊 Jaki to był cudowny czas, kiedy tata próbował zrozumieć nas po polsku, mama wygrzebała z pamięci podstawy rosyjskiego, by ze mną porozmawiać, a kiedy nie dawaliśmy rady to tłumaczyliśmy sobie po angielsku 🙂 I nie ważne było to, że jesteśmy obcy, których tamta rodzina widzi pierwszy raz w życiu na oczy…

Ciężko było przerwać ten stan… 🙂

Łapać chwile, nie zabytki

Mimo tego, że święta są bardzo rodzinnym wydarzeniem to zostaliśmy przez rodzinę Milosa otoczeni dużą opieką. Zrozumiałam wtedy, że nie kolejny zobaczony zabytek jest ważny, ale możliwość poznania drugiej kultury będąc trochę dłużej w otoczeniu mieszkańców.

Chrystus Zmartwychwstał!

Serbowie są niewyobrażalnie gościnni. Kiedy jechaliśmy do jaskini to ciągle zatrzymywaliśmy się by się z kimś przywitać. Miałam wrażenie, że tam wszyscy wszystkich znają. Każdy witał się okrzykiem „Христос Васкрсе” czyli „Chrystus Zmartwychwstał”. Kiedy siedzieliśmy przed domem przychodziło mnóstwo osób by ‘postukać się jajkiem’. I przyznam szczerze, że nie zauważyłam w Polsce takiej otwartości na drugiego człowieka. Pewnie bym się zdziwiła gdyby w Wielkanoc przyszło mnóstwo sąsiadów tylko po to by złożyć sobie życzenia czy ‘stuknąć się jajkiem’.

Serbowie wybierają sobie swoje ugotowane jajko a następnie w jednym momencie stukają czubkiem jajka w jajko. To, które pęknie przegrywa, a zwycięzca zabiera oba jajka dla siebie. Rytuał ten robi każdy z każdym i jest przy tym mnóstwo zabawy 😊 Raz mi się udało wygrać 😀

To był czas, który bardzo doceniam. I dziękuję Milosowi za tak ciepłe przyjęcie nas.

W tym roku (2019) to były moje drugie w życiu święta poza domem. 6 lat wcześniej lepiłam królika ze śniegu przed akademikiem w Moskwie. Tym razem, w pełni świadoma, zadecydowałam, że chcę wyjechać w moją podróż autostopem po Bałkanach jeszcze przed świętami . Kiedy wszyscy spędzali czas z rodziną, jedli tradycyjne posiłki i odpoczywali – ja właśnie spałam w niewygodnym i zimnym namiocie gdzieś na Węgrzech… A o barszczu czerwonym i święconce mogłam tylko pomarzyć. Doświadczenie było o tyle ciekawe, że mieliśmy w gronie byłego świadka Jehowy. Dwa dni spędzone z Milosem dały mi namiastkę moich świąt.

Milos, спасибо 🙂

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