Kotor i Zatoka Kotorska – Czarnogóra

Co warto zwiedzić w Kotorze? Jak smakują lody lawendowe? Czy warto wejść na bastion by zobaczyć panoramę zatoki kotorskiej? Co powinniśmy zjeść na Bałkanach? Kotor i Zatoka Kotorska.

Do Kotoru zabiera nas przemiła Rosjanka, która od kilku lat mieszka w Czarnogórze. Kiedyś sama jeździła autostopem, więc ‘zabranie nas było dla Niej zaszczytem i frajdą’. I chociaż jechała do miejscowości obok to podwiozła nas prosto do Kotoru polecając przy tym dobrą knajpkę, w której mieliśmy okazję zjeść bałkańską pleskawicę. Zasugerowała również, że aby zobaczyć panoramę miasta są dwa wejścia na bastion: bezpłatne i płatne po schodkach – wybieramy to pierwsze 😀

Skąd nazwa Kotor?

Nazwa wywodzi się od słowa Dekatera ( ze starogreckiego Katareo) i oznacza „gorąco”. I rzeczywiście było tam niesamowicie upalnie. Dlatego obowiązkowym punktem wycieczki powinny być lody 🙂 Kotor położony jest nad Zatoką Kotorską na wybrzeżu Adriatyku i otoczony jest górami.  Wpisany jest na Listę Światowego Dziedzictwa Kulturowego UNESCO. To jedno z najlepiej zachowanych średniowiecznych miast w południowo-wschodniej Europie.

Co warto zwiedzić w Kotorze?

Obowiązkowo spacer po Starym Mieście (poniżej opiszę kilka ważnych punktów) oraz wejście na fortyfikacje, z których rozpościera się kotorska panorama. Są dwa wejścia:  płatne i bezpłatne.  Czerwone dachówki starego miasta i małe łódeczki w marinie wynagradzają trud wejścia. Widoki zapierają dech w piersiach. Samotne Wzgórze mieści się na 260m.n.p.m, które otula swoimi średniowiecznymi murami Stare Miasto.

Twierdza Świętego Jana na Samotnym Wzgórzu

Wejście płatne 8e (z lewej strony), do pokonania ok 1300-1500 schodków. W 2017r koszt wejścia oscylował w granicach 3e, w 2019r od mieszkańców usłyszeliśmy, że będzie to kosztować 4e jednak…kiedy schodziliśmy z Twierdzy Św. Jana to na bramkach zauważyliśmy kartkę 8e. Nie wiem czy to jest zależne od pory dnia.

Płatna droga po schodkach na bastion, a w lewym dolnym rogu Kościół Matki Bożej od zdrowia

Protip: weź buty, które się nie będą ślizgały na schodkach i bądź ostrożny. Po drodze nie ma raczej drzew, więc niezbędna jest woda i jakaś przekąska, bo spacer w jedną stronę trwa ok 40 min (chyba, że się zatrzymujesz na robienie zdjęć i uspokojenie oddechu – wtedy dłużej) 🙂 Mimo trudu – uważam, że to wejście na bastion powinno być obowiązkowe 🙂

Drugie wejście jest wydreptaną ścieżką (z prawej strony). Czasem trzeba pokonać bujną roślinność, ale w granicach rozsądku – zapewni nam ona tez trochę cienia. Uważam, że koszt 8e to zdecydowanie za dużo za takie wejście, dlatego polecałabym bezpłatne wejście. Ja wchodziłam bezpłatnym, a schodziłam po schodkach 🙂 Nie ma możliwości wejścia na bastion z wózkami dziecięcymi!

Stare Miasto

Katedra Świętego Tryfona w Kotorze (Катедрала Светог Трипуна) – to jedna z dwóch katedr kościoła rzymskokatolickiego w Czarnogórze, która jest siedzibą diecezji kotorskiej. Święty Tryfon to patron miasta – męczennik chrześcijański, który wg tradycji posiadał dar uzdrawiania osób opętanych oraz dar leczenia, dlatego też wielu wiernych modli się do niego prosząc np. o uzdrowienie. Święty Tryfon za propagowanie chrześcijaństwa został skazany na ścięcie mieczem, więc stracono go w 250 r w Nicei.

Katedra Św. Tryfona
Trifon Zarezan

Warto tutaj nadmienić o Dniu Świętego Tryfona  (Trifon Zarezan), które jest obchodzone w państwach bałkańskich. To święto wina obchodzone 14 lutego wg kalendarza gregoriańskiego (dlatego jest alternatywą dla Walentynek). Tego dnia mężczyźni podcinają winorośle i pędy gałęzi zalewają winem co ma pozwolić na duży urodzaj winogrona na wino dla gospodarza. Ucięte pędy mężczyźni zaplatają w wianki lub na ramionach niosą do domu i kładą w szczególne miejsce. Dalej ma miejsce biesiada i wspólne picie wina – wieczorem mężczyźni spotykają się w karczmach.

Cerkiew Św. Łukasza
Cerkiew św. Łukasza (Crkva Svetog Luke / Црква Светог Луке)

Prawosławna cerkiew, która kiedyś była kościołem katolickim do XVII wieku. Mimo przekazania jej wiernym prawosławnym to do 1812 roku znajdował się tam obraz katolicki. Przez długi czas w tej świątyni były odprawiane msze obu obrządków. Na uwagę zasługuje posadzka, która została wykonana z płyt nagrobkowych zmarłych mieszkańców Kotoru, bo aż do 1930r chowano zmarłych w tymże kościele.

Kościół Matko Bożej Od Zdrowia widoczny w tle

Kościół Matki Bożej od Zdrowia w Kotorze (Crkva Svete Gospe od zdravlj) katolicka świątynia na zboczu klifu, znajdujaca się w połowie drogi (płatnej) do Twierdzy Świętego Jana. Zbudowana w 1518r.

Co warto zjeść w Kotorze?

O jedzeniu na Bałkanach wkrótce utworzę osobny wpis, jednak na uwagę teraz zasługują lody o smaku lawendowym – były przepyszne i ciężko mi porównać smak do czegokolwiek. Warte spróbowania!

Lody lawendowe ♥ i pistacjowe ♥
MAPA

Dla wytrwałych, którzy przescrollowali wpis aż do tego momentu jest mapa wejścia na wzgórze 🙂 Czerwona opcja bezpłatna.

Dotarłeś do Kotoru, a nie widziałeś moich poprzednich wpisów z podróży? Nic straconego! Kliknij w podkreślenia by przejść do poszczególnych wpisów:

Swoją podróż z Warszawy, przez Słowację i Węgry zaczęłam od dłuższego przystanku w Belgradzie, który okazał się dość smutny. Uczucie to mi wynagrodziły widoki zza okna pociągu przemierzając najpiękniejszą trasą kolejową z Serbii do Czarnogóry. Tam kąpałam się w Adriatyku robiąc przystanek w nadmorskich kurortach, by dojechać do Kotoru. Tę noc spędzę u Kobiety-Anioła, która nocą przygarnęła nas pod swój dach. Dalej będę się kierowała do Serbii, by zobaczyć Kanion Uvac (wkrótce wpis!) i spędzić prawosławne święta wielkanocne z serbskimi przyjaciółmi.

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