Jak wejść na wulkan? Etna w listopadzie 2018

Etna to obecnie najwyższy i największy w Europie stożek wulkaniczny wpisany na listę światowego dziedzictwa UNESCO w 2013 roku. Należy pamiętać, że Etna to czynny wulkan, który ostatnio swoją aktywność pokazał w grudniu 2018r. Charakterystyczne zjawiska dla wulkanu to białe i czarne dymy, deszcz popiołów i kamieni, strumienie lawy i trzęsienie ziemi. Etna ma 4 główne kratery oraz setki kraterów bocznych. Główny zbiornik sięga 25 km w głąb ziemi i mierzy temperaturę 1000*C. Ciekawostką jest, że na wulkanie można uprawiać narciarstwo – co przyciąga rzeszę turystów. O swoich wrażeniach pisałam w poprzednim wpisie. Jak się przygotować do wejścia na wulkan?

POGODA

Bez wątpienia jednym z najważniejszych czynników wpływających na nasze wejście na Etnę jest pogoda. To od niej zależy czy w ogóle dojdzie do wspinaczki. Pogoda wpływa m.in. na widoki, a także na to ile sił poświęcimy na wspinaczkę. Przy ogromnym wietrze idzie to dość opornie. Dlatego jeśli planujecie Sycylię na kilka dni to sprawdźcie wcześniej najlepszą prognozę na Etnie, bo pogoda bywa chimeryczna 😊

NSWE: Moja podróż odbyła się w listopadzie 2018 r. W dniu, w którym planowałam wspinaczkę był cały autobus z Katanii pełen ludzi, ale jeszcze dzień wcześniej chętnych było połowę. Temperatura na Etnie wskazywała wówczas 1*C. W Katanii jest ok 20*C więcej. Weźcie to pod uwagę.

Jaka pogoda towarzyszyła podczas wspinaczki?

NSWE: Początkowo piękne rozgrzewające słońce, im wyżej tym bardziej wietrznie, że czapka i kurtka poszły w ruch. W drodze powrotnej nagła zmiana pogody: deszcz, mgła, ograniczona widoczność, wilgotna powierzchnia pod nogami i bardzo zimno.

Porządnie się przygotuj do trekkingu. Zwróć uwagę na sypką powierzchnię, która spowalnia ruchy i powoduje, że osuwamy się w dół. Odpowiednie buty są niezbędne.

CO ZE SOBĄ ZABRAĆ?

  • porządne buty – droga usypana jest z kamyczków. Koniecznie gruba podeszwa!
  • porządna wiatrówka
  • długie spodnie, ciepły polar
  • okulary przeciwsłoneczne
  • czapka/chustka – od wiatru, na głowę i uszy, ale też od deszczu czy śniegu
  • jedzonko i woda 🙂

NSWE: Można się posilić przy pierwszym postoju, jednak ceny są zaporowe 🙂 Tam również można wypożyczyć kurtkę lub buty na dalszy trekking. Ponadto w schronisku znajduje się sklep gdzie można nabyć pamiątki np. magnesy z lawy czy likier z pistacji 🙂

  • opcjonalnie: krem z filtrem
  • wydrukowana mapa lub mapka w telefonie
  • aparat fotograficzny
Pamiątki z lawy do kupienia w schronisku 🙂

DOJAZD Z KATANII

Z Katanii kursuje autobus przewoźnika „AST”. Jeździ do parkingu Rifugio Sapienza skąd zaczynamy trekking. Autobus kursuje codziennie (oprócz niedzieli) z prowizorycznego dworca autobusowego. Ze stanowiska nr 10. Podróż trwa ok 2h, z półgodzinną przerwą (ok. godz. 9.00) na kawę w miejscowości Nicolosi. W podróży powrotnej nie ma pauzy. Autobus zatrzymuje się w Katanii dla wysiadających w kilku miejscach.

Na dworcu kierujcie się w stronę knajpek, gdzie obok znajduje się ta boczna ulica. Zaznaczyłam w kółko miejsce gdzie można kupić bilet.

Latem: są 2 kursy w godz. 8.15 i 11.20 . Powrót: 11.45 i 16.30

Jesienią: wyłącznie jeden kurs o godz. 8.15. Powrót: 16.30

Gdzie można kupić bilety?

Bilety można kupić wyłącznie w dniu wycieczki, od godziny 7.30 w sklepiku przy dworcu. Należy zauważyć sklepy przy dworcu i udać się w boczną uliczkę, którą wskazuję poniżej. Koszt 6,60e w dwie strony. Bilet powrotny kupujemy od razu.

Kiedy na dworcu zauważysz knajpki to kieruj się w boczną uliczkę. Wskazuje ją żółty znak RENT A CAR. Będzie Wam łatwiej trafić 🙂

Jeśli chcesz dojechać samochodem to pamiętaj, że drogi są wąskie i kręte. Parking kosztuje 2e za 1h lub 6e za cały dzień.

PROTIP: W autobusie dobrze jest usiąść po lewej stronie, ponieważ będziemy mijać domek zalany kiedyś lawą. A w drodze powrotnej po prawej stronie 🙂

Domek zalany lawą

ETAPY WEJŚCIA

Rifugio Sapienza- Stazione d’arrivo Funivia 1910 mnpm-2500 mnpm 1 h 50 min
– Torre del Filosofo (piazzale) 2500 mnpm -2900 mnpm 3 h 30 min
– Base Ovest Crateri Sommitali 2900 mnpm – do krateru głównego 4 h 15 min
Rifugio Sapienza ok 1900 mnpm – parking skąd zaczynamy trekking lub wjazd kolejką linową (i dalej ewentualnie jeepem)

1 etap 1900-2500 – Autobus podwozi nas na parking na ok 1910 mnpm. Tam możemy wybrać się na własnych nogach do 2500 mnpm i dalej. Bądź możemy wykupić wjazd kolejką linową. Przejazd trwa kilkanaście minut. Koszt ok 30-35e.

Kolejka linowa 1900-2500 mnpm
Stazione d’arrivo Funivia 2500 mnpm – tutaj możemy odpocząć i coś przekąsić. Skorzystałam z tego zdecydowanie za długo, jednak ciężko jest ‚napatrzeć się’ na takie widoki 🙂

2 etap 2500-2900 – Dalej również możemy iść pieszo lub wykupić miejsce w jeepie, które kosztuje ok 30e. Jeep jedzie na wysokość 2900mnpm kilka minut. Już na parkingu możemy od raz wykupić opcję kolejka+jeep za ok 65e.

Takim autem można się przejechać aż do wysokości 2900 mnpm

3 etap 2900 – do krateru – Wejście blisko krateru jest obowiązkowe z przewodnikiem, jednak w praktyce ludzie idą często sami, na własną odpowiedzialność. Nie zachęcam do takiego zachowania, należy być rozważnym.

Jak widać Sycylijczycy zrobili sobie dość dochodowy biznes z Etny, ponieważ można się tam nieźle wykosztować. Ceny z roku na rok wzrastają.

Boczny krater z boku 🙂

NSWE: Jeśli wspinasz się na Etnę jesienią to weź pod uwagę swoją kondycję, warunki atmosferyczne oraz czas odjazdu autobusu. Istnieje duże ryzyko, że nie zdążysz wejść w okolice krateru głównego jeśli nie skorzystasz z kolejki. Ja w listopadzie, z popsutymi zatokami, które na wysokości dały we znaki, doszłam do ok 2750, choć faktem jest, że długo się zbierałam zanim zaczęłam startować. Pozwoliłam sobie też na baaardzo długą przerwę na stacji 2500mnpm delektując się widokami.

A teraz zapisz sobie numery alarmowe 😊

AMBASADA RP: +39 06.36204200

12 Carabinieri (Karabinierzy)

118 Pronto soccorso (Pogotowie)

113 Polizia stradale (Policja)

115 Vigili del fuoco (Straż pożarna)

Kratery boczne mijane po drodze. Jeśli nie masz sił, albo czasu by wejść na krater główny to możesz zobaczyć kilka wygasłych już kraterów bocznych

CIEKAWOSTKA

Granita – czyli zimny deser sycylijski podobny do lodów prawdopodobnie powstawał ze śniegu z Etny. Śnieg był ważnym towarem dochodowym na wyspach pełnych słońca, dlatego zbierano go zimą w jaskiniach na Etnie, zabezpieczano solą, a następnie słomą, by się nie rozpuścił. Później na osiołkach transportowano do miast.

Żółte pale wskazują drogę jeepom. Dla pieszych są wyznaczone czerwone wstążki, jednak przy wielu turystach nie sposób zgubić ścieżki. To oni wyznaczają trasę. Warto iść po śladach, by się nigdzie nie zapaść

ŻYCZĘ POWODZENIA!

Oraz okna pogodowego, żebyście widoki mieli niezapomniane 🙂

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